M-16 All Purpose Mainsail
2012 North American Champion! Olympic Gold Medal! 2010 World Champion!
The M-16 was originally developed by Olympic Gold medalists Ian Percy. This Juan Garay design is slightly deeper in the 3/4 height compared to the old V-1 giving a little more power without being overpowered.
The M-16 mainsail features:
- Radial Clew and Head with Cross Cut mid sections construction
- Mixture of Dimension 180HTP and 165HTP and Contenders 3.6 Polykote
- Two Vision Windows and Spreader Window
- Luff and Leech Telltales
- Spectra leech cord
- Standard with Epoxy Battens, Carbon Battens are available upon request
- Class Royalty label
- Long Roll and Folded Sail bags
- Class Insignia (Red as standard)
- Sail numbers
M-22 Heavy Air Mainsail
The M-22 is the Juan Garay heavy airs sail, designed with more luff curve than the M-16 to compensate for the greater mast bend that stronger winds bring. It's wind range is 18+ knots.
The M-22 mainsail features:
- Radial Clew and Head with Cross Cut mid sections construction
- Mixture of Dimension 180HTP and Contenders 4.46 Polykote
- Two Vision Windows and Spreader Window
- Luff and Leech Telltales
- Spectra leech cord
- Standard with Epoxy Battens, Carbon Battens are available upon request
- Class Royalty label
- Folded Sail bag. Full length sail bag available at extra charge.
- Class Insignia (Red as standard)
- Sail numbers
J-115 Light Medium Jib
2012 North American Champion! 2010 World Champion!
The J–115 Light-Medium jib (also known as J-1) is our light to medium air sail, designed slightly fuller than our all purpose R-2 model, with the addition of a radial head.
The J-115 Light-Medium Jib features:
- Cross cut construction with a Radial head
- Contenders 3.8 and 5.46 Polykote
- Two Vision Windows
- Tell Tails Luff and Leech
- Zipper Luff, long and short option
- Class Royalty label
- Long Roll Sail bag
R-2 Medium-Heavy Jib
Pure Power!
The R-2 is a flatter version of the J-115, and perfect for stronger winds or flat water sailing.
The jib is made out of 3.8 Polykote with 5.46 Polykote in the foot to make the sail last longer. Using a laser plotter, North Sails is able to build the smoothest jibs out of this cloth.
The R-2 was used by Hamish Pepper to win the 2006 Worlds, the North Americans and the 2007 Bacardi Cup! Iain Percy also used the R-2 Jib to Win the 2002 Worlds.. and Torben Grael used to Win the Gold Medal in Athens!!!
The R-2 Jib features:
- Contenders 3.8 and 5.46 Polykote
- Two Vision Windows
- Tell Tails Luff and Leech
- Zipper Luff, long and short option
- Class Royalty label
- Long Roll Sail bag
- This jib is also available in 5.46 Polykote for more durability and better heavy air performance.
J-25 Heavy Jib
The J-25 is our heavy airs sail ideal from +18 knots, designed slightly flatter than the J-115, its radial head gives a smoother finish and is easy to trim.
The J-25 Heavy Jib features:
- Cross cut construction with a Radial head
- Mixture of Contenders 5.46 Polykote and 4.46 Polykote
- Two Vision Windows
- Leech Line
- Tell Tails Luff and Leech
- Zipper Luff, long and short option
- Class Royalty label
- Long Roll Sail bag
>> Contact the
Star Experts for additional information and questions about our products.
Tuning your Star for Speed
>> Download the
North Star Tuning Guide
Have a Question? Ask the
North Star experts.
Star FAQs:
How do we achieve good speed off the start line on a Star boat?
You want maximum acceleration off the line and this is achieved with a softer more twisted main setting. I like to keep the jib trimmed hard, so that helm is near neutral.
After the boat is at full speed and on the groove, the main can be trimmed hard to the normal spot.
The other point we like to make is, that a Star is a relatively heavy boat, and inertia plays a bigger part on the start. Having the sails eased and having speed at the line, or better speed before the start than your nearby competitors is key to a good start. How many times do we see a boat coming from behind with speed blow by the boat that is parked at the starting line?
I have good speed but lack on pointing,
what should I do?
Most of the time pointing problems come from the mainsail
being set flat and therefore less powerful. The first control that come
to mind is the outhaull and lower backstay. On trying to generate power
the outhaull being eased will greatly help create power up the very
low sections of the mainsail. By increasing the tiller pressure, making
easier to steer in light shift conditions.
The next control is the lower backstay, that will make
the middle sections of the mainsail fuller and again more powerful.
It is possible that the lowers can be pulled too hard and as a result
the forestay get too tight. If the lower backstay have to be pulled
hard to make the mainsail fuller, the spreader should be moved further
forward ( eq. from 5 1/2" to 5" ).
Very often I just pull the lower backstay an extra half
inch to maintain my crew over the side and keep the boat power up and
on the high pointing mode.
How much shroud tension upper should
I have?
The upper shroud tension dictates the amount of pre-bend
you will have and how full your mainsail will setup. This is true even
in very light winds.
We don't pay much attention to how much tension I have on the shrouds
but more important, how much pre-bend I have. To measure your pre-bend
is very simple. With the boat on the trailer "pop" the mast
with the spreaders aft, as you were setup for going up wind. Make sure
that lever is off, and upper backstay have only enough pressure to make
the forestay snug. Then bring the main halyard shackle to the opening
on the mast groove and check the distance from the
halyard to the mast as the spreader height. The mast fore&aft dimension
is 3 3/4" and I normally set my mast with 4 inches of pre-bend.
We think this is a much better way to tune your rig, since
this is exactly what will affect the fullness of your mainsail. With
the mast stiffness varying a bit, the right pre-bend (the bend that
fits your mainsail ) with a softer mast should require less shroud tension
than with a very stiff mast, therefore comparing upper shroud tension
between boats without comparing mast stiffness is NOT very accurate way to duplicate the setup.
Star Boat Rigging Tip:
The Star rig have been setup further forward now than
ever in light winds and this setup won't work if the jib isn't pull
up the forestay. We see often this days crews with the jib tack about
a foot above deck. This accomplish two tasks: one that the jib is further
up where winds are less affected by the water surface ( surface drag
), therefore making the jib more efficient.
Second is that when sailing in strong winds the bow and
the pole tip tends to hit the water, and we all know what comes after
the pole hit the water. By lifting the jib on the downwind leg, we keep
the jib and pole way from the water and the crew the work the waves
harder.
I have seen lots of boat that have made the jib halyard
puller going through the mast partner allowing the jib to be pulled
even further up. This is easy control to be rigged up and sure will
make the difference on your downwind speed and your comfort zone.
>> For more information on Star sails and tuning, contact the North Star experts.
North Sails is proud to present our full line of Star boat covers, all handmade to the highest quality standards. Constructed using rugged premium 12 oz polyester 900D fabric, North One Design boat covers will give you piece of mind when storing your Star or taking it on the road.
Available for the Stars:
- Star Skirted Tent Cover
- Star Mast Cover with strings
- Star Trailering Cover (photo)
- Star Hiking Vest (photo)
Star Trailering Skirted Cover
North Star Hiking Vest
Contact the Star experts: