Thistle

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I bought a used Flying Scot that has a set of North Sails. I am trying to find out if they are cut for a Snug Rig or a loose rig. Would north sails have a record of this?

Usually the computer draws on "LR", SR" and "TR" for the various jib designs. These markings would be noticeable by the north logo at the tack. Sometimes, unfortunately, the markings are unclear or missing. In that case, the best way to tell the difference between a Loose, Snug and Tight rig jib in the Scot is to measure the width of the jib at the seam just below the top batten. If it is 38" it is snug. If it is less it a Loose rig (probably by over an inch and a half) and if it is more (wider by nearly 3/4") it is a Tight rig. Just as an aside we probably sell the Snug jib at 5:1 to our other jibs these days. The Tight rig was popular in the late 1990's and the Loose rig jib was popular before that time and also in the late '90's. The Snug rig has been by far the jib of choice since roughly 2002.

Good luck and please let me know what further questions you may have!

Answer by Greg Fisher

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How to set up the rigging for a "gold mast" Thistle version?

As you recognize your mast is quite stiff and needs all the help and encouragement it can get to bend. Unfortunately there's only so much you can do. Loosening the diamonds up a great deal is very helpful. I would set the top diamonds so they actually have a wiggle to them of about 1/2" each way...therefore they won't register at all on the gauge. Be sure to tape the wire in the screw head.

For the bottom two sets I'd set them up with a tension of no more than 3-5 on the Model A gauge. Again tape the wires in the screws. Once sailing I'd look up the mast to be sure the mast is straight, or hopefully, bending sideways to leeward at the top. If not adjust the diamonds accordingly to straighten the mast where needed. Try to maintain the same low tension.

I'd set the rig up with about 25-30 on the forestay using the Model A gauge.

Answer by Greg Fisher

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Which Sails For You: The three different models of North Sails

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Answer by Greg Fisher

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Mast Bend - How Much is Enough?

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Answer by Greg Fisher

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What's the difference between the Fisher and the Proctor mainsails?

In some ways the differences in the designs are quite subtle but the setup and tuning are somewhat different.

The Fisher main is built from a lighter, stiffer fabric and is slightly more draft forward than the Proctor cut. This main likes vangsheeting which means in bigger breeze the vang is pulled on quite hard when the boat is overpowered. This will bend the mast and allow the sail to flatten out. Since the vang is holding the boom down the traveller doesn't need to be adjusted as much. The mainsheet is played to balance the helm and keep the boat on its feet.

The Proctor main is made from a slightly heavier and softer fabric. The concept is that this sail is a little more "self adjusting" and doesn't need as much mainsheet or cunningham to peform well. It does however like to be sheeted harder as this mainsheet tension bends the mast and flattens the sail. Since the mainsheet trimmed tighter the traveler is played to help maintain helm balance and keep the boat flat.

While the techniques are quite different..the sails still get to the weather mark close to the same time!

Answer by Greg Fisher