The San Diego J/24 sail models have been developed by two-time J/24 World Champion Vince Brun and his team in San Diego. The moderate, consistent winds and year round sailing opportunities in San Diego are ideal for sail testing and these designs are the result of countless hours of two boat testing. Utilizing a simple 4-setting tuning system the San Diego designs are true All Purpose designs. These sails will take you from the lightest drifter to 25+ knots of wind.
The San Diego designs utilize slightly more mast pre-bend than the Newport designs. This makes the mast set up slightly softer and hence produces a very forgiving setup. While having the the right tune is still important with the San Diego designs we've found this set up to be especially versatile if you are caught with the wrong tuning for a particular breeze.
San Diego AP-2 J/24 Mainsail
#1 2010 J/24 North Americans!
#1 2009 J/24 Nationals!
The J/24 AP-2 is a flatter sail and this makes it a much easier
sail to trim and set up. A flatter sail can be trimmed tighter
before it is over sheeted and this makes the AP-2 easier to
use for sailors of all experience levels.
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"We won the South American J-24 Championship, using San Diego sails, and a Newport Spinnaker. We beat the 3-time World champion, Brazilian Mauricio Santa Cruz, who was the local favorite!!!"
Alejandro Rossi
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The other thing a somewhat flatter main does for the J/24
is it makes the whole trimming of the sails more automatic.
As we trim the main in the leech of the main gets tighter,
this in turn pulls the top of the mast back slightly which
tightens the headstay and flattens the genoa. The two sails
are trimmed in sync with each other and the flatter main
makes this possible.
J/24 Mainsail standard features:
- RBS Tapered epoxy battens
- Vision/spreader windows
- Leech cord
- Shelf foot
- Floating tack
- Cunningham
- Leech telltales
- Sail number and national letters
- Class Insignia
- One-design tube roll bag
North San Diego 3DL J/24 Genoa
#1 2011 J/24 North Americans!
After many years of development, North is proud to launch the 3DLGenoa for the J24 class. There is no other product in the market that comes close to this sail in terms of engineering, design and construction. Its smoothness is incomparable. Its power has been already proven faster than any other sail by winning the 2010 US Nationals and two races during the 2010 Worlds!
Benefits of the 3DL Genoa:
Lighter. The sail is comes in slightly lighter than the paneled Twaron version and significantly lighter than the Pentex version, just above the class minimum weight.
Stronger. 3DL technology keeps the shape of the sail locked in and solid when the breeze picks up. This is a huge advantage on the J/24, that with its limited sail inventory, requires carrying the genoa to 18+ knots of the wind.
More durable.The lower stretch and better alignment of the structure of the sail with the loads makes for a longer lasting sail. Less shape deformation=longer life.
Easy to set up and trim. Same tuning numbers developed for the Twaron genoa work well for the3DL Genoa. Due to the fact that the sail stretches so little trimming is significantly easier, especially in a breeze.
Better Value. Lighter, stronger,more durable and easier to trim...!
J/24 Genoa standard features:
- Two vision windows
- Telltale window
- Tacking line
- Cunningham
- Sail numbers
- Draft stripes
- Roll bag
- One-design tube roll bag
San Diego GP-7TW Twaron J/24 Genoa
#1 2009 J/24 Nationals!
The San Diego GP-7TW genoa is rounder in the front and straighter in the back (especially in the top of the sail). This makes the groove wider when sailing in waves and also makes the sail de-power faster when the sheet is eased slightly as the wind pipes up.
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| | "I must thank the North J24 team for all your knowledge since I switched from Quantum to North over the winter. We have only used the new Twaron San Diego Genoa twice, but when we've used it, we have found an amazing gear and height! Even with our two regatta old North Pentex Newport, we really rock. We won our first series at the club against some really good competition! Thanks again for all your knowledge sharing. It was definitely worth the switch."-- Jean Levac, CAN 4468 - Pura Vida
Genoa |
Genoa standard features:
- Two vision windows
- Telltale window
- Tacking line
- Cunningham
- Sail numbers
- Draft stripes
- Roll bag
- One-design tube roll bag
The GP-7 design is also available out of Pentex® material.
Super Rocket Blade + J/24 Jib
The new Super Rocket Blade + Jib features a tri-radial construction that makes it super low-stretch which is very important for a sail that will be used in 18-30 knots of wind. The design features a very straight exit which helps you to keep the boat flat. Ease the sheet 1/2" and the leech of this sail really opens up and de-powers!With the Super Rocket Blade + Jib you will find the boat much easier to steer in the big breeze and heavy chop that this sail is designed for.
J/24 Jib standard features:
- Vision window
- Bronze hanks
- One-design tube roll bag
San Diego FR-2 J/24 Spinnaker
#1 2010 & 2009 J/24 North Americans!
#1 2009 J/24 Nationals!
After many hours of on the water testing and computer studies by the North One Design designers, we have finally reached a product that will make a difference in the J/24 class, especially on windward/leeward races.
The image on the right compares the design shape of the new FR-2 (red) to the previous San Diego spinnaker (blue). The head has been flattened so that it flies wider, and the center seam is more upright. The bottom has been refaired so the lower leeches fly more open underneath the middle of the sail. The objective is to make the sail fly more open up and down the luff. The result allows the pole to be flown lower with more projection and a luff that breaks evenly along the entire height of the sail. FASTER.
>> Contact the
J24 Experts for additional information and questions about our products.
Based on the success of the Straight Mast tuning method, North Sails One Design Rhode Island introduces the Newport designs. Our goal was simple: take the most successful J/24 designs ever built, refine and update them to reflect more modern and sophisticated construction and design methods. The result is faster, lighter, smoother and more durable products that utilize the same straight mast approach but with some critical, substantial and important upgrades.
You will find the Newport designs to have a large steering and trimming groove for all sails in all conditions. From club level sailors to World Champions, the Newport designs offer speed, ease of use and durability that make them a great choice for all sailors.
Newport Fat Head J/24 Mainsail
#1 2011 & 2009 J/24 North Americans!
The
Newport Fat Head J/24 Mainsail is a refined version of the main sail
developed by Ken and Brad Read - the sail that was the first of the
short leech, minimum luff curve mainsails in the class. The shorter
leach moves the girth measurements up which adds area to the roach of
the sail. This in turn gives the sail plan more power in the back
inducing weather helm in light air.
We have refined this
legendary sail renamed it the Fat Head. This sail now has even more sail
area between the headboard and the top batten.The Fat Head Main takes
less pre-bend than the San Diego main and concentrates more sail area
further aft in the sail plan. More weather helm means a higher pointing
and faster boat.
The Fat Head J/24 Main is designed to use one mast butt position from light to heavy air.
J/24 Mainsail standard features:
| | "WOW! Naturally we expected your sails to improved our performance, but they far exceed our expectations. Suddenly we're a boat to be contended with in a very strong fleet of a dozen J-24s. It feels like a different boat.Thanks for your typically excellent work"-- Dallas Murphy
"We have never been so fast...There is no question your sails are superior!"-- Jeep Califano
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RBS Tapered epoxy battens- Vision/spreader windows
- Leech cord
- Shelf foot
- Floating tack
- Cunningham
- Leech telltales
- Sail number and national letters
- Class Insignia
- One-design tube roll bag
North Newport 3DL J/24 Genoa
#1 2011 J/24 Europeans!
#1 2011 J/24 East Coasts!
#1 2010 J/24 Nationals!
After
many years of development, North is proud to launch the 3DLGenoa for
the J24 class. There is no other product in the market that comes close
to this sail in terms of engineering, design and construction. Its
smoothness is incomparable. Its power has been already proven faster
than any other sail by winning the 2010 US Nationals and two races
during the 2010 Worlds!
Benefits of the 3DL Genoa:
Lighter.
The sail is comes in slightly lighter than the paneled Twaron version
and significantly lighter than the Pentex version, just above the
class minimum weight.
Stronger. 3DL technology keeps the
shape of the sail locked in and solid when the breeze picks up. This
is a huge advantage on the J/24, that with its limited sail
inventory, requires carrying the genoa to 18+ knots of the wind.
More durable.The
lower stretch and better alignment of the structure of the sail with
the loads makes for a longer lasting sail. Less shape
deformation=longer life.
Easy to set up and trim. Same
tuning numbers developed for the Twaron genoa work well for the3DL
Genoa. Due to the fact that the sail stretches so little trimming is
significantly easier, especially in a breeze.
Better Value. Lighter, stronger,more durable and easier to trim...!
J/24 standard features:
- Two vision windows
- Telltale window
- Tacking line
- Cunningham
- Sail numbers
- Draft stripes
- Roll bag
- One-design tube roll bag
"The North sails fit the boat perfectly right out of the box"! Flip Wehrheim
Newport DX-7TW Twaron J/24 Genoa
#1 2010 J/24 North Americans!
From the development of the low luff curve mainsail came the
need and opportunity for a deep and forgiving J/24 Genoa.
Made of revolutionary Twaron ® fabric, the Newport DX-7TW J/24 Genoa has proven to be very durable and fast. This sail is powerful
and responsive in light air and in the breeze it will not get
deep like a Polyester sail.
The Newport DX-7TW J/24 Genoa matches up perfectly with the Newport
J/24 Main to give the helmsman a very wide steering groove with less tweaking than ever before!
- J/24 Genoa standard features:
- Two vision windows
- Telltale window
- Tacking line
- Cunningham
- Sail numbers
- Draft stripes
- Roll bag
- One-design tube roll bag
The DX-7-7 design is also available out of Pentex® material.
Super Rocket Blade + J/24 Jib
The
new Super Rocket Blade + J/24 Jib features a tri-radial construction that
makes it super low-stretch which is very important for a sail that will
be used in 18-30 knots of wind. The design features a very straight exit
which helps you to keep the boat flat. Ease the sheet 1/2" and the
leech of this sail really opens up and de-powers!With the Super Rocket
Blade + Jib you will find the boat much easier to steer in the big
breeze and heavy chop that this sail is designed for.
J/24 Jib standard features:
- Vision window
- Bronze hanks
- One-design tube roll bag
Newport Slant Nose+ J/24 Spinnaker
#1 2011 J/24 North Americans!
Computer molding and many hours on the water have proven this spinnaker to be very fast running and extremely durable. The Newport Slant Nose + Spinnaker features extra stiff patches at the head and clews for maximum projection.
This sail is the largest in the class in the lower one third of the sail.
While it is made for windward/leeward courses, the low stretch tri-radial construction makes it a good reaching sail.
The Newport Slant Nose + J/24 Spinnaker comes in three-color zone combination.
>> Contact the
J24 Experts for additional information and questions about our products.
Tuning your J/24 for Speed
>> Download the
North J/24 Tuning Guide (San Diego)
>> Download the
North J/24 Tuning Guide (Newport)
>>
Video presentations on mast tuning and sail trim
Have a Question? Ask the
J/24 Experts
J24 FAQs:
What's the recommended tension for the backstay?
With regards to the backstay we thought having it off to
measure the forestay would make it easier to get a method where all boats could
be tuned the same. You are right that just hooking it up and even trimming the
main effects how much the forestay will sag...
With
that in mind we suggest (this is in the tuning guide) that the tension on the
backstay bridle always be adjusted so the blocks sit about 8" below the triangle that joins everything together.. So
each time you tighten or loosen the shrouds for a change in wind velocity you
will need to do the same for the backstay bridle.
Can you give me some hints on how to go faster on a J24?
It is really important to sail at max weight 882 lbs. In anything
above 10 kts, that extra weight is noticeable in terms of upwind
performance. At the top of the fleet, we try really hard to make sure
we are max crew weight.
Changing gears in the J24 is huge! The skipper has a lot on
his plate. The top guys make the skipper responsible for the backstay,
traveler, mainsheet, Genoa trim and steering the boat. Let me try to
explain how this works. A nice steady breeze makes it a lot easier
obviously. In the steady breeze you can kind of get things set up and
just rumble. In a puffy breeze, there is a constant adjustment of the
controls.
Puff hits…crew eases genoa, skipper eases traveler. Puff begins to ease up,skipper pulls traveler back up, cleats it. Then moves quickly to the winch handle and cranks in the genoa. Repeat the above sequence with each new puff. There are different variations of this depending on-strength of the puffs. If the puffs are very strong…vang sheeting-becomes a little more effective. A super tight vang and using the process above, but instead of easing traveler down, you’re easing mainsheet. The backstay should be set as close to a happy-medium as possible, but every now and then it should be adjusted based on the overall trend of the breeze. I like to have it eased in the light spots as much as possible, as long as you can get enough back on before the next big puff hits. It would be nice to have three hands. Trust me it is not easy…it takes a lot of practice. |
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You want to start by getting your boom at centerline. You
accomplish this with mainsheet tension and traveler. The mainsheet
tension controls the amount of twist in the sail and leech tension. In
light air or light spots, you want twist (and the top leech tell tale
flying)…so softer mainsheet tension and a higher traveler to keep boom
at centerline. A twisty main is also good for accelerating or for bow
down modes. You want nice twist in your main after a tack to help the
boat get back up to speed quickly. In medium breeze, you want a tighter
mainsheet to close the leech a little for better pointing. You have to
ease traveler down to keep boom at centerline if you pull on mainsheet
tension. The only time you let the boom go below centerline and go
traveler down is when you really need to de-power and keep the boat flat.
Even before a lot of traveler down, I am usually putting on some
backstay to de-power.
The backstay has a few rules of thumb. Take some off for
more power and pull some on to de-power. If your main starts to invert
and flog, you should ease some backstay to get flow over the sails going
again. Backstay is more of a macro adjustment unless it is really
puffy, then you are constantly easing it off in the light spots. Also,
if you are ever overstood in breeze and need to crack off, put lots of
backstay on. If you need to point higher in a short distance like if
you understood the windward mark, take backstay off.
The Genoa trimming by the skipper is key. Basically the
skipper sits right next to the winch that has a winch handle in place.
In a puff the trimmer, who is hiking out all the way, will ease the
genoa in anticipation of the puff, not letting the boat heal over (we’re
talking like a foot or more of ease at times), and then the skipper
winds the winch handle to crank the sail back in before the boat heals
to windward. This takes some practice, but once you get it, it’s huge.
Never let the boat heal to leeward. Anytime the boat is healing it is
sliding sideways a lot faster than you think. When a 30 knot puff
hits, you actually have better VMG if your boat stops dead in the water
and remains flat, than if you heal over, go forward but slide sideways.
The boat that stopped dead in the water will actually be closer to the
windward mark after the exchange.
How often do we get new sails? The Genoa obviously takes the
biggest beating. After only a couple heavy air regattas you will be
able to notice a performance difference between a new and used sail.
It’s not only the beating the sail takes against the mast in tacks, but
also the crew stuffing it up on the bow during downwind sailing. You
might not like to hear this but we make sure we have a new Genoa for
every big event.
Quantum is pushing a material called AirX. What is you opinion and what type of material is the North Spinnaker made out of.
We make our sail out of a material called Superkote. Both, the Superkote
and the AIRX 650 which Quantum uses weight very close to the minimum
allowed weight of 42 grams per square meter. I have used AIRX on a
number of
J/24 spinnakers. My conclusion is that it makes a good sail but one
that is best in flat water and a good breeze. The Superkote is actually a
little softer which makes the sail more forgiving in any of waves and
lighter winds. Superkote also seems to last a little longer as it relies
more on the weave of the cloth for strength rather than a surface
coating. / Answer by Chris Snow
I've been told J24s roll tack easy enough. Using techniques I adapted from dingy racing and a basic knowledge of hydrodynamics, I tested this theory and couldn't get it to roll over. Is there a better technique for fixed keels that i don't know about?
Roll facing out and push down on the windward
life line. Start from the middle of the boat and do it all together.
With four people rolling you should be able to get the windward rail all
the way down to the water, once it is flatten the boat slowly and you
will get a nice squirt forward.
What is your feeling about Newport vs San Diego cut. I sail in the Inland NW.
Sailing on a lake where the wind is shifty I would choose the San Diego designs. This sail is fuller in general especially in the middle which
makes it more forgiving to trim in variable and shifty conditions.
The
sail can take quite a curl before it becomes unstable. The Newport
is
better in open water straight line sailing.
What is your opinion about having multi color sails. I read somewhere that it was better to have one color due to the stretch in the panels over time. Is this a big issue?
We highly suggest having the head and clews of the sail each a
solid color. Also I would try to have these areas lighter colored if
possible. This way the top and bottom of the sail is made from the
same
lot of cloth and it will stretch relatively evenly over the life of
the
sail. Also making the sail with lighter cloth in the top and bottom
will
insure that you are getting a sail made with Grade A woven cloth. With
darker colors flaws can be hidden and even though all the cloth is
tested by the maker and us this generally seems a safer bet.
The tuning guides tell me about which ring to fly the pole from but as the wind builds I find that the floating tack sometimes wants to fly quite high. The question is once you have got the pole to horizontal, do you keep raising the pole to keep the kite level or do you use the barber hauler (twinning lines) to keep the floating tack down to the pole tack. Does water conditions affect your thinking on this?
Generally the J/24 likes the pole on the low side so while
we try to keep the clews level we also work on keeping the pole end
a
little lower than the free flying end. We generally twing the pole
side
down enough that the pole will sit right up at the tack of the spinnaker
at all times.
Generally do not use the leeward twing on a J/24. The boom acts
as plently of a twing when needed.
What's the difference between the San Diego and Newport sails?
The mainsails ARE very similar. I know the San Diego sails well and
have helped to develop these sails. About two years ago we made the
main significantly flatter. The reason was that the J/24 likes the main
trimmed really hard and for sure a flatter main can be trimmed harder
before it stalls. Both mains are quite forgiving.
The San Diego genoa is touch flatter than the Newport genoa (The Newport
main is flatter than the San Diego so needs a fuller genoa to go with
it). We have found that the sail is really fast in the upper end conditions
with the genoa where sailing the boat and keeping it flat is harder. In fact
the sail was so good in a big breeze that we just made the top of the
sail a little fuller to make it easier to keep the boat going in lighter
air.
When to move the mast butt position?
There is no real reason to have to change
the mast butt position once you find the proper location. Here we use
a Loos Model B tension gauge and with the lowers on 21 and the uppers
on 24 we measure the headstay tension with the backstay completely disconnected.
The headstay will be loose and the tip of the gauge should be about
30 mm from the headstay if you have everything set up right. You will
also have about 3 to 4 cm of prebend at this point. The only time I
have seen adjsuting the butt while racing work is when it is really
blowing hard (25 knots plus) and then moving it forward just a bit MIGHT
help.
How to ease and trim the main and jib together smoothly? Well..easing isn't hard but since I grind the winch for the jib/genoa and pull in the main they don't come in together, it's always one or the other first. Both together is obviously better but I'm not sure how to do it. Do you have the cockpit guy grind in the jib himself and only worry about the main when both are eased or do I just try to do both myself. How do you do it?
You are talking about when you are cross
sheeting the genoa and jib. Basically I think the best thing to do is
if you just ease the jib a inch or two, you need to grind the sail back
in a keep the cockpit guy hiking out.
Yes the sail will not be trimmed in exactly
the same but I think this is less disruptive. If you have the ease the
jib a lot (like when ducking) have the cockpit guy turn around and grind
and tail the sheet him/herself. This way you can concentrate on the
mainsail.
The balance between the two sails on
a boat like a J with the a small keel is important. Keep playing the
sails in concert with one another.
How can I get my J24 to point higher?
Generally the reason a J/24 does not point (or sail as
close to the wind as the boats around it is because the boat is not
developing enough weather helm. The boat needs a small amount of weather
helm to be able to always sail as close to the wind as possible.
The first thing to do is to recheck your boat against
the tuning guide to make sure you have followed everything correctly.
If this is so then I like to go out sailing with the rig tuned properly
for the wind and take a close look at the mainsail set up. Usually what
you will find in these cases is that the lower part of the main to too
flat relative to the top of the sail. In general the sail should have
a nice smooth shape from top to bottom, often in cases where the boat
is not pointing well the bottom of the main will be very flat right
off of the mast indicating that we need to move the mast butt forward.
Start by moving it ¼" and see if that makes a difference,
it should make the lower part of the mast a lot straighter and give
you more helm and height!
My J/24 sails nice and high but I can't get it to go as fast as the other boats through the water. What can I do?
You basically have the opposite problem of the folks in
the question above. There are times in race where tactically you want
to " put the bow down" and just go fast regardless of height.
If your boat won't do this you are handicapped a bit. The problem is
that your lower mast is too straight which makes the main too full and
causes you too develop an excess amount of weather helm. Every time
you try to sail the boat low and fast the boat heels too much and develops
more weather helm. Move the mast butt back ¼" to put in
more lower bend, recheck your shroud tensions and you should be all
set.
Should I use the upper or lower ring on the mast for the spinnaker pole?
With the Newport spinnaker we use the lower ring until
about 15 knots of wind. For the San Diego spinnaker use the lower ring
until about 10 knots.
When I sail in heavy air with the jib I can't get the jib halyard tight enough to remove all the wrinkles in the luff of the sail?
Above 20 knots you want the luff of the class jib smooth
with no wrinkles. To get the halyard tight enough sail downwind before
the start with the backstay off and have two crew pull up the halyard.
This should get it tight enough. Be sure to get the jib up BEFORE you
tighten the backstay at the leeward mark.
How important is the J/24 spreader angle adjustment? This seems to be hard to get right.
The spreader angle is hard to get right but it is worth
the effort. The spreader angle affects how "stiff" the mast
will be in the boat. Angle the spreaders forward and the mast gets stiffer,
sweep back and the mast gets more flexible. This is important because
as we tighten the backstay we need a certain amount of stiffness in
the mast so the headstay will get tighter and flatten the genoa as the
breeze builds.
If you have a older mast with "male" stainless
steel fittings coming off the mast we suggest either retrofitting to
a thrubar set up or using the Allis Racing style spreader adjusters.
With a newer mast you may need to bend your thru bar to get the right
angle (see your local machine shop).
Have a Question? Ask the J24 Experts
J24 Skirted Deck Cover
This is the ultimate cover for you J/24. Works with mast up or down. Can
be used for Winter storage. Cutouts for all stanchions, mast and
mainsheet. Works also with stanchion supports. Fits J/24’s from all
builders and works with rudder on transom. Webbing with buckle
adjustments underneath make cover fit snugly. Protect your valuable
investment with this cost effective cover.
"Got
my cover for J24 the other day. Installed on the boat. Fits great and
seems to be well made. Thank you this will help keep the boat
looking good". - Bob Smith
J24 Padded Keel Cover
Protect your valuable keel job with our padded tight fitting keel cover.Made from ultra durable 12 Oz. 900D and fully padded with thin closed cell foam this cover will last longer than you own your boat. Trimmed with heavy webbing for abrasion resistance. Closes in back with webbing and buckles. Webbing loops along front allow it to be tied to trailer supports for extra security.
J24 Padded Rudder Cover
Protect the rudder from scrapes and dings when inside boat for trailering to
your next big event. Closed cell foam over 900D fabric. Heavy webbing
around edges make is extra durable. Can be used with tiller on or off.
Rudder stays inside cover with webbing and buckle closure over top of
rudder.
J24 Mast Cover
J24 Spinnaker Launching Bag
Here is our basic check list that we use when preparing for a big J24 regatta, like the World Championship. Please don’t hesitate to email or call any of us with specific
questions. We are always happy to help!
Let’s start at the top…first you need a boat!
BOAT PREPARATION
Hull
- Proper keel shape
- Keel max forward
- Keel max depth
- Faired: keel, rudder and bottom
- Rudder hung at minimum depth
- Plumb boat to make sure keel, mast, mast step, mast partner, chain plates, jib and genoa tracks are symmetrical.
- Wet sand and buff hull, bottom and foils prior to event.
Equipment
- Sails! (Try to show up at the event with fresh sails)
- Proper deck layout with upgraded fittings (make sure your gear isn’t going to break at the event!)
- Newer Anodized Mast (if you have an old mast, don’t let this keep you from competing!)
- Thru bar and spreader sweep set at 160 to 165 mm (tight fit!!)
- Check over your boom for wear and make sure the outhaul is updated.
- A good working spinnaker pole with ends that work properly. (Tapered pole at class minimum weight is nice.)
- Check shrouds, backstay and head stay terminals for corrosion.
- Newer halyards
- Newer running rigging
- Proper tiller and tiller extension that won’t break in a breeze.
- Check all clevis pins, ring dings, bolts, screws etc…
*Notes:
1.Try to show up at the event with some time on the halyards and running rigging..this way the splices have had a chance to settle in and the sheets to wear so they’re not soapy and slippery.
2. We recommend a shackle on the main halyard, Genoa/Jib halyard and topping lift. None needed on the spinnaker halyard…tie a bowline!
3. Think about bringing a spare tiller extension and spinnaker pole as part of your optional equipment.
Measure
Your boat will be fully measured at the Worlds, we strongly suggest if the boat hasn’t been measured before you should get your local measurer to check the boat over. The last thing you want to deal with at the event is needing to change
something in the parking lot…no matter how big or small a job it is! **Leave plenty of time for this so act now! Here are some things that they will measure:
- Builders weight
- Keel measurements
- Rudder measurements
- Spin pole length and weight
- Boom tip weight
- Black bands on mast and boom
- Mast height
- Forestay length
- Lifeline deflection and tension
- J dimension
- Sails
Transport
- Proper tow vehicle
- Serviced trailer
- Working running lights
- Proper padding for your mast, boat etc..
- Proper ratchet tie down straps
- Spare tire
- Tire iron
- Proper jack (probably not your car jack if you can help it)
- I like to take a can or two of “fix a flat”
- North Sails travel covers!
Paperwork
Class membership/ Sticker
Depending on the type of the event, you will have to be a class member to sail class sanctioned events. Registration is yearly for $65 or you can sign up for 2 years for $125. Register online.. You will receive your class card and a yearly sticker that needs to be on the stern of your boat.
Measurement Cert (required for the Worlds)
You need a valid measurement Certificate.
Note that the all up dry weight + optional equipment is 1330Kg now, that is less than it used to be so you may have to re-weight.
- One trick we use is that we write the weights of everything on each piece of equipment with a sharpie. That helps a lot!
- Note that the optional and required equipment list needs to be filled out. Make sure you have it on the boat in case you are inspected.
Tuning
Sails- Make sure you have a practice set a and a “Game Day” set of sails.
- Do a couple of test runs on the new sails though to make proper marks on the boat.
- Some of our preferred inventories includes: Newport Main, Newport 3DL Genoa, Super Rocket Blade and a San Diego FR-2 Spinnaker. For windier venues we would use our Newport Spinnaker.
- A basic sail repair kit is mandatory, this should include: tell tales, 4” sticky back-fixes all sails, hand stitching items with palm and small can of McLube.
- Mclubing the tell tales on the genoa as well as the leech area hitting the mast is helpful.
- If the weather gets down below 40 degrees, bring the spinnaker home to prevent seams from becoming unglued.
- If it is really windy out: put Dacron tape over the mainsail battens to prevent from flying out.
Mast- Straight mast in boat over keel
- No bends, etc…
- Polish before hoisting
- Inspect all fitting, bolts, ring dings, etc…
- Install Teflon Tape at the spreader tips, bottom 2 meters of the upper shrouds and the front of the mast where the clew hits during tacks.
- Mark all shrouds so they always go back into the same side of the mast to ensure a good tuning matrix.
- Defer back to Equipment Section for more overlapping ideas.
Shrouds- Look for rust in the swedge fittings on all shrouds, replace when needed.
- At the beginning of the event (during the practice days), it is good to wind the rig up hard overnight to stretch the shrouds out, helping to settle in.
- Always have a fast way to tune the rig: two adjustable wrenches tied together, turnbuckle handles, and proper screw driver, etc… make sure the system is in place.
Charts- Rig Matrix is a must have, written down in a water proof book on board at all times.
- This is accomplished up on land or at the dock at the beginning of the event, checking throughout the regatta.
- Nautical charts of the area are very helpful.
- Tide charts of the area are key as well.
Team
Skills
There are 5 pretty defined roles on the boat, Bow, mast/twing, middle/tactician, cockpit/trim and helm. One of the cool things about the J24 is it really is a team boat, you’re as good as your weakest link and it is hard to win unless you have a team that understands these roles.
Personality
- Let’s face it you spend a lot of time with your team, and the worlds is a solid week of on the boat, in the car and sharing housing. It is important to get along with your team and most importantly enjoy their company and have fun!
- Fill your team with solid sailors. It is important that they understand each role on the boat; this really helps the team run like a fine tuned machine.
- It is always nice if you have some crew that understands boat work, rigging, and general sail repair is good too!
- There is always a ton of items to get the boat to the regatta and back again, it’s nice to have team members that are willing to pitch in and take on certain tasks, this makes it a team effort and doesn’t put the sole burden on one person. Left for one person it can be a big task and takes a lot of the fun out of the regatta.
- Knnow your crews strengths. Try to divide jobs/tasks up to members based on this. Don’t assign the best chief on the team the boat work tasks or vice versa…..you’re liable to end up eating sawdust sandos or worse!
- Try to tackle the big tough jobs (like polishing the bottom with Teflon) as a team, it goes faster too!
Size
The max crew weight is 882lbs. We suggest sailing right at weight. Typically a team will have a set driver, trimmer, tactician and bow. Then crews tend to round out the weight with the mast position. The simple answer is, build around your key members and sail at max weight!
Logistics
Logistics are number one in our book! Some folks fly by the seat of their pants on this but it’s always a little less stressful to have things planned out well in advance!
Housing
- Stay in a place where everyone has a bed, the days are long at any regatta and this is a week of straight sailing!
- Try to stay as close to the regatta site as possible, walking distance in nice if you can swing it!
Food
- We suggest to bring a simple snack on the boat, energy bars, peanut butter and Jelly sandos, diet coke, and lots of water!
- Eat a good breakfast and lunch too!
Shipping
- If you are shipping your boat to the event, remember: You can’t ship a boat last minute. Find a good shipping broker that you trust and hold on!
- There are plenty of good charter boats in the states so please let us know if you need any help locating one.
- You may bring some of your favorite Genoa blocks, sheets, tiller, spare parts or whatever, make sure you check your airline’s weight restrictions and bear in mind there are many good places here in the states to get items if you need them!
- Sails, you may choose to fly with your sails, check the airline box restrictions and get the appropriate box. This will save you lots of extra $$ and if you’d prefer, let one of the North Sails One Design J24 gurus know and we will bring you a set in the van delivered at the event!
Trailering
- Make sure you service your trailer, check the lights, brakes, etc...
- Make sure you have proper padding for your trailer keel, pads, mast, rudder, etc…
- Make sure to have proper tie down straps.
- You will want a proper spare tire, lug wrench, jack, jumper cables, can of “fix a flat”, you get the picture!
Practice - Well, practice is key!
Tune
You want to find a good tuning partner that is as fast or faster and wants to get the same things out of the tuning…has the same goals etc….Is willing to put the same amount of time towards the tuning and to share the data found openly between the two boats. The goal should be to make both boats fast and not just one!
Think about hiring a coach to help, a good coach can help with drills but also with the rig and sail set up. A good coach is always money well spent!
Boat Handling
- Boat handling is what it’s all about! If you think about it the corners are the one time in every race that you can pass boats quickly! Of course wind shifts and things too but those don’t always happen in every race…most times you are rounding a mark at least one time in a race!
- Set a windward mark and a leeward mark. Start with them spread apart so you have plenty of time to get the kite up and then jibe a few times and round the bottom mark. Go around and around until you’re so tired you can’t do another lap! Take a break from time to time and move the marks closer and closer so at some point they’re so close you barley have enough time to get the spin up and then back down before rounding the marks…this will expose any weakness in your boat handling quite quickly! Then stop and break the items down and start over. The goal is to grow as a team and by the end be the best boat handling team on the course!
- The other item that works well is some match racing with your tuning partner. We do this all the time, you’ll need three marks for this.
Racing
Go to as many regattas as you can leading up to the Worlds! What this will give you is confidence getting off the starting line and show you how you line up with some other teams.
THE EVENT
Check in
- Make sure to have all your documents ready to go. Insurance, crew waivers, entry fees, class membership card, US sailing card (or the like) etc….you get the idea!
- Remember, all of the people at check in are volunteering their time so please be nice to them!
Measurement
- Your boat will go through the complete measurement process at the Worlds. Boat weighing, keel and rudder measurements, mast measurements, sail measurements, Equipment list, etc… I’d suggest trying to confirm these items before you show up at the event. You will still need to get all the measurements done again at the regatta but you may expose any potential problems prior to showing up at the worlds which will be less stressful to deal with ahead of time!
- I’d suggest going through your required and optional equipment list and confirm the weights of things. Write the weight on the items so to save time later weighing the items. They should have a scale at the event for you to use as well but I strongly suggest showing up ready to go!
- Most events have measurement sign up for all these stations, sails, crew weight, boat weighing, mast and boom etc….make sure you are proactive and get yourself on the list!
- The more prepared you are ahead of time the less time you will have to spend at the event on these items to get passed in measurement. This way you can spend more time on the water!
- Take some tools and spare parts…some etc. lead etc…all the scales seem to weigh differently, try and have items to fix and potential problems without having to run to West marine 20 times!
- Have your rule book on hand just to clarify any items that may come up.
Docking
- Bring tons of fenders and long dock lines.
- Find out if the boats will be on the dock or on a mooring. Sometimes having a dock box is nice to store extra gear, tools, fuel etc…Dehumidifier is nice too!
Cleaning the Bottom
- Bring a mask and a wetsuit to clean the bottom of your boat each morning!
SAILING A WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP
Big Lines
- Figure out which end of the line is favored and then try and stick around that area. Don’t get caught too far away from where you want to be on the line!
- Continue to track the wind shifts so you don’t get caught on the wrong side of the line. If the wind is all over the place I suggest hanging in the middle so you can make a last minute decision.
Lots of Boats
- Remember the same basic rules apply with 20 boats or 100 boats…you want to get off on the favored side of the line with a good hole to leeward to you don’t have to tack for a while….carving a good hole on the starting line is what it’s all about….
- With more boats and longer lines it is even more important to start on the favored end of the line. Make sure you get out to the race course early and do your homework!
- Lots of boats = lots of traffic. Make sure all crew are looking for boats to prevent any collisions.
Protests
- Try and sail clean and stay out of the protest room! If you find yourself in a protest make sure you have your rule book and a witness or two. Remember the protest room is always a 50/50 thing….if you fouled do your penalty and if you’re the protestor make sure it is really a valid protest.
On the Water Etiquette
- Try and represent your country well in a proper seaman like fashion.