NORTH RESULTS

2013

ILYA Champs 1,2,3

2012

Nationals  1,2,3,4,5

2011

Nationals  1
Inlands 1

2010

Nationals  1
Inlands 1
North Americans (Overall)
2,3,5,6,7,8,9,10
Pewaukee Series 1
Oshkosh Series 1
Minnetonka Series 1
Lake Geneva Series 1





A SCOW


North A Scow 3DL® Mainsail

2012 Nationals Champion!

Using the best technology currently used in the America’s Cup through North Sails Worldwide, our A Scow mains are the perfect blend of local Scow sailing design, and leading edge sailmaking technology.

North Sails’ exclusive 3DL® technology helps to maintain the fast shape from the drawing board, to production, to the water. This design very closely replicates the shape of the paneled mainsails yet offers huge weight savings, more strength, and incredible smoothness of a 3DL® sail.

It features a draft forward, straight leeched sail design. The top batten is not too full so the sail is very forgiving to trim and the leech fans open nicely. It is very easy to keep the leech telltales flowing with this sail. There is simply no other choice in A Scow racing.

Available in Aramid 600M and Carbon/Kevlar 860.

3DL mainsail includes:

  • RBS full and tapered performance battens
  • Option of carbon or fiberglass battens
  • Kevlar spreader patches
  • Enhanced vision windows
  • Choice of red, blue, black or green numbers
  • Class insignia
  • Leech telltales
  • Velcro clew strap
  • North Sails sail ties
  • Waterproof personalized roll bag
  • North Sails “Quick-Tune” tuning guide for on the water tuning reference
  • North Sails support and service





North A Scow TRI- Radial Kevlar Mainsail


Our all purpose Mainsail has dominated this fast paced unlimited performance Scow class. Designs from Harry Melges are updated from sail to sail and are designed for your special carbon mast.

Using the finest Kevlar sail fabrics available you can rest assure that your mainsail is the lightest, strongest and fastest sail on the course.

Carbon battens for maximum performance come standard with this sail.
Carbon blend upgrade available.

 




The Light Speed and AP Tri-Radial jibs are a must for a well rounded A Scow sail inventory. Both jibs are constructed with the latest carbon/Kevlar material and have proven their capabilities by winning the Nationals and ILYA Championships this past season. The new Ultra-Light jib is a great addition to the inventory for those super light days!

North A Scow Light Speed Jib

Available in Kevlar or carbon, the Light Speed jib has set the pace for fast A scows! It is full in the front and straight leeched for high speed and power at the same time. This sail can be carried up to 20 kts and still perform very well. If you want to be in the front of the pack, this sail is a must.

Jib includes:

  • RBS tapered performance battens
  • Personalized waterproof roll bags
  • Custom luff tapes
  • Enhanced vision windows
  • Spectra leach cord
  • Fiberglass batten-pusher
  • Ultra-lite telltales





North A Scow AP Tri-Radial jib

The All Purpose Tri-Radial jib is available in both Kevlar or carbon cloth. The AP Jib is the perfect compliment to the Light Speed jib for when the breeze is up and speed is key. This sail has a very wide range and will be fast in all conditions!

Jib includes:

  • RBS tapered performance battens
  • Personalized waterproof roll bags
  • Custom luff tapes
  • Enhanced vision windows
  • Spectra leach cord
  • Fiberglass batten-pusher
  • Ultra-lite telltale





North A Scow Ultra Light Kevlar Tri Radial Jib

The Ultra-Light Tri-Radial jib is made out of Kevlar and the name says all.. This sail is a must for ultra-light conditions!

Jib includes:

  • RBS tapered performance battens
  • Personalized waterproof roll bags
  • Custom luff tapes
  • Enhanced vision windows
  • Spectra leach cord
  • Fiberglass batten-pusher
  • Ultra-lite telltale






Photo Pat Dunsworth

North A Scow Whomper Asymmetrical Spinnaker

Wind Range: 7 - 25mph
The name says it all. This spinnaker is the only sail to win every championship since 1998. When the Whomper is in use, the competition takes notice.

Whomper is constructed with high quality AIRX fabric which is built for performance. Choose your own colors and make your own design.

Spinnaker includes:

  • Waterproof personalized spinnaker bag
  • Durable non-stretch luff, leech and foot tapes
  • North Sails Priority Service and Repair
The sail is available in two different cloths:

AirX 500
AirX 600




North A Scow Mid Size Runner Reacher Spinnaker

The Runner/Reacher is the perfect compliment to the Whomper when the breeze has gone soft or when it is really pumping.

High quality AIRX fabric is used for ultimate performance and durability. Choose your own colors and design.

Spinnaker includes:

  • Waterproof personalized spinnaker bag
  • Durable non-stretch luff, leech and foot tapes
  • North Sails Priority Service and Repair

 




North A Scow VMG Asymmetrical Spinnaker

Wind Range: 0-25mph

This sail is approximately 20% smaller than the Whomper and compliments the Womper nicely, filling in the range from 0-8 mph and again this sail is fast when the wind is over 18+, especially in waves. A great addition to your inventory!

Spinnaker includes:

  • Made out of the same great material - AirX 600
  • Durable non-stretch luff, leech and foot tapes
  • North Sails Priority Service and Repair






North A Scow 100 Degree Reaching Aysmmetrical

This is the sail that you see on those tight reaches on special distance courses sometimes used in A Scow racing.

A high aspect sliver sail, this sail is really fast when you want to sail close wind angles and a must have if you want to bring home the silver from these special distance race courses! 

Made out of AirX 700.

Spinnaker features:

  • Waterproof personalized spinnaker bag
  • Durable non-stretch luff, leech and foot tapes
  • North Sails Priority Service and Repair




Please contact our North A Scow Experts for more details.

Tuning Guide for Swept Spreader Rigs

The Swept Spreader Rig

The new swept spreader rig was developed to take A scow racing to the next level of simplicity and enjoyment. This new rig is deck stepped, making the rigging process for two people a fraction of what it was with the old rigs. The new rig is pre bent via the upper shrouds running through the spreader tips back to the base of the mast. This set up allows us to remove the permanent backstay and the ram as the mast bend can be fine tuned with the upper shrouds. This rig is more forgiving to use in regard to all aspects of rigging and sailing. This new rig allows the boat to accelerate in the puffs making the boat much easier to sail and in light air the mainsail shapes to the mast correctly, bringing the fleet closer together in terms of boat speed.

Because this new rig is a bendier more forgiving mast some care must be taken while sailing in heavy air, especially when sailing with a lot of weight on the boat. We do not recommend sailing with more than 1200 lbs. on the boat, if you do, the loads on the boat and the rig are extreme and you must be very careful not to damage the boat and the rig. With lots of crew weight it is easy to over bend the mast. Be careful not to pull on too much running backstay or vang while sailing upwind in heavy air. A snug vang and then pull the running backstay on to the point where the main starts to turn inside out and then ease it out to fill up the main again. If you pull the on the backstay so hard that the mast over bends, you actually start to lose headstay tension and this is slow and dangerous for the mast.

These boats are like formula 1 racing machines, the rigs and the boats are built for speed and they need to be tweaked and fine tuned to achieve the best performance and to minimize any type of break downs.

Mast and Shroud Set-up

1.Untie the mast from the boat, place the mast rest pole in the boom rest socket.

2.Attach the mast head fly to the top of the mast and retrieve any halyards that are pulled to the top and attach the running backstays into the mast, take care to go around upper shrouds properly so that when mast is flipped over tunnel down the running backs are properly lead.

3.With a person at each end of the mast, flip the mast over so the tunnel is down, carry aft and latch in the base of the mast in the deck plate and rest the top of the mast in the mast support.

4.Attach the Intermediates to the aft hole in the chainplate, make sure the spinnaker sheets are lead outside the chainplates when attaching the shrouds.

5.Attach the Lowers to the forward hole in the chainplate.

6.Tie the jib halyard feeder line onto the end of the jib halyard and pull jib halyard through deck and out the side of the back bone. Be careful not to lose feeder line inside back bone or the line will have to be re-lead through the pulleys.

7.Pull the jib luff lines tight on both sides of the deck and insure that they are properly cleated, attach the block and tackle of the mast stepping pole to the jib luff, attach the forestay to the eyestrap on the other side of the mast stepping pole, place the mast stepping pole saddle over the base of the mast. Stand on the front side of the mast stepping pole purchase and with a person on each side of the boat holding on to an upper shroud to guide the mast and keep the mast centered on the way up, pull up the mast using the purchase system.

8.Make sure that the mast stays centered on the way up so as not to damage the mast step. Make sure the spinnaker sheets are lead in front of the forestay and attach the forestay.

9.Remove the mast stepping pole and stow away.

10.Attach boom and finish rigging and running lines and taping all necessary fittings. 

Mast Pre-Bend
The upper shrouds run through both spreader tips and back to the base of the mast. When the upper shrouds are tensioned, they pre-bend the mast. The all purpose setting for the pre-bend is 5”. This is found by running a string along the back of the tunnel and measuring at the midpoint of the spar.

Removing the pre-bend for storage
- The pre-bend should be taken out of the spar for winter storage. Mark the turnbuckles and spin off the turnbuckles or, if you have the levers, either release those with the mainsail up and trimmed in, or when the spar is down on horses and you have someone put their weight on the middle of the spar to bend and take pressure off the upper shrouds. Never remove the pin on the lever when the uppers are under load.

Mast Rake
We now measure the mast rake from the deck up to the junction of the forestay pin along the forestay. The measurement range is between 15” and 17”, 15” being the max forward position in light air and 17” would be max aft in the big breeze.

Fine Tuning the Mast Rake

Light Air
The light air mast rake setting can be as far forward as 15”, especially if you are sailing with heavy crew weight. You may even want to experiment with the rake further forward if you sail heavy.

Heavy Air
This measurement should be around 17”, some fine tuning may be necessary to dial this in to the perfect rake. Basically, when you have big breeze and you have the running backstay pulled on, you will want to be able to trim out the mainsail and close up the top batten. If you are raked too far aft, the mainsail will stay twisted open too much.

Tuning Chart

 Light Air 0 -8

 Medium Air 8 - 18

 Heavy Air 18+

 Mast Rake

 15"

 16"

 17"

 Upper Shrouds Pre-bend

 

Ease off 2 turns
4”-4.5” Pre-Bend

 Back up 2 turns to
5”-5.5” of Pre-Bend
 

Standard spot
5”-5.5” of Pre-Bend

 Intermediates

 

300 lbs on Model
A Loos gauge
(See Tension Gauge Conversion Chart)

 

+ 6 Full turns

 

+ 6 Full turns

 Lowers

 

Set up so mast
Has ½” - 1” sag

 

+ 4 Full turns

 

+ 6 Full turns

Downwind
When sailing downwind, the only adjustment we have to make in regard to the mast and the standing rigging is with the running backstays. You only want to snug up the backstays downwind to help support the mast and take some of the shock load off the chainplates in big waves and big puffs. Generally, you could sail downwind with no backstays on at all if you wish as the upper sidestays support the top of the mast and with the chainplates swept aft, you do not need the backstays to support the mast. It is recommended that in medium to heavy air you snug the windward runner to ease the load on the chainplate area, however, take care not to pull the runners too tight and invert the mast up high. It is a good idea to have a crew member sight the mast bend and make sure there is not too much running backstay on.

Jib Set-up

The jibs should be set up so that they are low to the deck. The foot skirt should curl on the deck In light air. The jib should be set up fairly full down low, and the luff should break evenly as you slowly head into the wind. As the wind builds you will want to gradually flatten the foot of the jib and twist open the upper leech, causing the jib luff to break sooner up high when luffing into the wind slightly. The upper leech should have a telltale on the top batten. This telltale should always be flowing. To find the correct trim, trim until the telltale stalls and then ease the sheet until it begins flowing— that would be maximum trim.

Jib luff
Just pull the wrinkles out in all conditions. Over tensioning the luff may over stretch the sail.

Jib Track
The maximum inboard position would be even with inboard edge of cockpit. Ease outboard in medium/heavy wind to keep mainsail from "backwinding". Set to the maximum outboard setting when reaching and running. 

Mainsail Controls

Cunningham
Light air - None.
Medium air - Pull out wrinkles.
Heavy air - Pull hard to move draft forward and open leech.

Vang
Light air - Loose.
Medium air – Start to play the vang on in the puffs to bend the mast and depower the mainsail.
Heavy air - Very firm to vang sheet in puffs and to flatten the mainsail.

Outhaul
Light air – Ease in approximately ½” to ¾” from boom band to power up bottom of mainsail.
Medium air - Pull to black band to flatten and depower.
Heavy air - Pull to black band.

Running backstay
Light air - Keep soft to sag headstay and power up the jib, you can even tape forward along sidestays to get them out of the way if you wish.
Medium air - Ease in lulls, pull hard in puffs to depower and flatten jib, and depower and twist open mainsail.
Heavy air - Pull very hard to depower and flatten jib and mainsail.

Traveler
Light air - Pull to windward of centerline approximately 8"-10", this allows you to keep a loose mainsheet tension and allow the mainsail to twist open as much as possible up high. As the breeze builds and the crew starts to move towards the windward rail, ease the traveler down to center and trim the mainsail harder to remove twist.
Medium air - Center and work down in puffs to keep boat on her lines.
Heavy air - Work up and down in puffs. Maximum out is at rudder posts.

Sheet
Light air - Twist top batten open, keep top leech telltale flowing as much as possible. Choppy conditions require more mainsail and jib twist with fullness down low.
Medium air - Trim until top telltale stalls half of the time. Or sight back 1/3 of top batten parallel to boom. Again, more twist if the chop is big.
Heavy air - Flatten and twist main, work sheet to keep the boat on her lines and driving.

Downwinds

Asymmetrical Spinnakers
• 0 - 6 knots - Use the Mid SIze asymmetrical. Induce Maximum leeward heel. Take jib down if necessary.

• Over 6 knots - Use the big one. Keep maximum heel, Use 2/3’s to max board board. Work the shifts. Work the puffs. If the breeze is up, everyone must hike, mainsheet in fairly tight and press the boat up to go as fast as possible all the time.

Hoisting Asymmetricals
Hoist halyard first, under main and keep sail under control to leeward. At the same time pull out bowsprit. When the kite is approximately ½ to 2/3’s of the way up, pull out tack making sure that a crew member feeds the kite out of the bag keeping tension on the foot and the tack line to keep it up on the deck and out of the water, and fill chute. The helm should bear away during the hoisting process to not fill the kite too quickly, however, if it looks like the kite is going to go in the water and shrimp, the helm should head up to fill the kite and lift it out of the water. PAY ATTENTION NOT TO CAPSIZE FROM HEADING UP TOO FAR.

Gybing Asymmetricals
There are two gybes that work best on the A scow, the Mexican gybe and the pre-gybe.

Mexican Gybe
The Mexican gybe works best when there is over 7 or 8 mph of breeze. To perform the Mexican gybe, the trimmer overtrims the kite as the boat bears away, strapping the foot tight as if to do a Mexican takedown. As the kite loads up on the new gybe, the trimmer blows the sheet off and the other trimmer overhauls the new sheet. Make sure that the sheets run free and that there are no sharp objects at the sidestays or the forestay. The helm will come through the first part of the turn fairly quickly to help load up the kite on the new gybe, the helm will hold the turn at the point where the kite loads up on the new side to give the kite a chance to fill, then freshens up to accelerate.

Pre Gybe
The pre gybe works best in light air when there is not enough pressure to load up the kite on a Mexican. On the pre gybe, the helm bears away to almost dead down wind, the trimmer starts to trim the kite around to the new side and at the same time the bow overhauls the new sheet at the shrouds to help the kite around. The helm waits until the clew is at the sidestay before gybing through the wind onto the new gybe. If done properly, the kite will come out filled and off you go.

Asymmetricals Takedowns

The windward take down
Head the boat straight down wind, start jibing spinnaker and overhaul windward sheet around until clew is near the mainsheet position. An early release on the tack line will help take the pressure out of the kite to pull it around faster. The jib trimmer must tend to the tack line to keep it from running out too far and going under the boat. The helm should steer under the kite to help blow it on the deck and a foreward crew should control the foot to keep it out of the water.

Leeward take down
On a leeward takedown you must first throw the lazy spinnaker sheet foreward around the headstay into the water to blow it aft alongside the leeward side of the boat. A crew member grabs the lazy sheet pulling off the clew as far foreward as possible in the cockpit, right behind the shrouds. The helm bears away to take some load off, the tack is blown off and the clew is pulled in and down quickly under the boom. Pay attention to the upper leech of the mainsail as the kite will sometimes catch on the leech. Also, you must tend to the tack line to keep it from running out too far and getting tangled in the rudder or board.

Mexican take down
Approach the leeward mark on starboard tack approximately 1.5 boat lengths to windward of buoy. When just shy of port lay line gybe the boat and at the same time trim the chute tight on the port side, release the bow sprit and the tack line to allow the kite to be trimmed further aft behind the shrouds, and as the chute blows into the rig release the halyard and drop the chute on the deck. Keep control of the foot and sail to keep it out of the water, steer under sail, tail tack and halyard lines down. This is the most effective take down if done properly. In a Mexican, there is very little time in between the steps and the crew needs to practice the steps to get it down properly and quickly.

Troubleshooting

Too much windward helm
Pull on max outhaul, then rake mast aft, then more running backstay, if that doesn’t do it then pull some board up.

Can't point
Jib car might be too high, or jib is set-up too full down low. Rig may be too tight or mast rake too far aft or both. Mainsail may be set up too full.

Leeward helm downwind
Not enough board.

Sailcare

Your North Sails are constructed out of the best materials on the market today. We make sure of this by testing every roll of cloth we use. Through proper care and maintenance your sails will give you the performance you have come to expect from a North Sail.

The most important factor for a long life for your sails is to watch them for signs of wear and tear in high load and chafe areas. Be sure to wash the sails off with fresh water and dry the sails thoroughly before storing. A dry, mild climate is best. Excessive heat can cause problems with the sails due to the possibility of shrinkage. It is best to roll the mainsail and jib.

Mainsail
When hoisting and lowering the sail try to minimize the amount of creasing or wrinkling of the sail. Every time the sail gains a crease the cloth breaks down that much faster. Always have someone contain the leech and luff during these procedures. The battens can be left in the sail without any problems. Be sure to roll the sail parallel to the battens so that the battens will not twist. This could cause damage to the battens.

Jib
When rolling the jib keep the battens perpendicular to the leech. Pay special attention to the battens and batten pockets for wear and tear.

Spinnaker
The spinnaker is fairly straight forward. Be sure to repair all tears and pulled stitches. Folding the sail when storing is best. Always dry a spinnaker after every use. Do not hoist the spinnaker up the mast to flog it dry unless there is very little wind. The flogging breaks down the material much faster.

>>For tuning queries contact the A-Scow Experts.


Sail Fast... Sail Smart!

Competitive Scow Boathandling 2-disk DVD-Rom                 A GREAT GIFT IDEA!

 

The newest addition to the Competitive Boathandling Series presented by Harken and North Sails is Competitive Scow Boathandling. This installment is unique among the series as it is a two-disk five boat video that features four of the most popular scows representing a cross-section of the scow racing world. In addition, there are special features that include content on the X-Boat junior trainer in addition to personal moments with Buddy Melges and other exciting footage demonstrating the awesome power of the Scow.  
 

This is a video for the entire family that offers over two hours of instructional content on the most exciting boats enjoyed by young and old among the inland lakes and coastal tributaries in the US. The topics covered include every facet of boathandling around the race course on the A-Scow, C-Scow, E-Scow and MC-Scow narrated by Harry Melges III, Eric Hood and Andy Burdick with special notes from Scow historian Thomas Hodgson.

In addition, disk two which includes special features such as the interview with Buddy and the X-Boat is a mixed-mode disk which operates as both a DVD for TV playback as well as a DVD-ROM for PC instruction.

Watch the trailer of the DVD



This set of 2 DVD-ROMs reviews every boat and sail handling situation for the A, C, E and MC scows with full-size video and text instruction in a versatile PC environment. Disk 2 offers bonus material that can be played in a television DVD player.

Minimum PC Requirements:

· Windows ME, 2000, or XP
· XGA monitor of resolution 1024x768 or better
· Internet Explorer 5 or 6 as default browser
· Microsoft Windows Media Player 9 or higher (9 is provided on disks for optional installation)
· At least 128MB of RAM (256MB+ preferred)
· Processor speed of at least 600Mhz and Pentium III class or better (800Mhz+ preferred)
· DVD-ROM drive with rotation speed of at least 6x

IMPORTANT: There may be compatibility issues with Windows 7.

Contact the A Scow experts:


Andy Burdick
(262) 275-9728 Work
(262) 275-8012 Fax
andy@melges.com
Jim Gluek
(262) 275-9728 Work
(262) 275-8012 Fax
jim@melges.com
Harry Melges
(262) 275-9728 Work
(262) 275-8012 Fax
harry@melges.com
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