Husband-Wife 1,2,3*,5,6
Great 48 Regatta
Midwinter Champs
Midwinter Challengers
George Washington


North Americans 1,2,3,4,5
North Americans - Women -
North Americans - Juniors -
Midwinter Champs
Greater NY Districts
Midwinter Challengers
George Washington Regatta


North Americans 1,2,3,4,5,7,8


North Americans 1,2,5,6,7,9
North Americans Juniors 1,2,3
Wife/Husband Champ Div
Wife/Husband Challenger Div 1
Midwinter Warm-Up 1,2,3


North Americans 1,2*,3,4,5,6*,9
Jr North Americans 1,2,3
Husband/Wife Regatta 1,2
Pymatuning Independence Day 1,2,3
DIYC Regatta 1,4


North American 1,2,3
Sandy Douglass Regatta 1
Michigan-Ontario Districts 1
CPYC Early Bird 1,2,3
Midwinters 1


North Americans 1,4,5
Mid Winters Champ Div 1,2,4
Mid Winters Challengers Div 1*,2*,3,4,5
Douglass/Orr Invitational 1,2
Njyra Championship 1,2

"Thought I'd drop a line and let you know we missed the wife/husband regatta, but did make it to the 45th FS Anniversary regatta at Cowan Lake. This was our first regatta entered and 1st time using the new sails----placed 3rd overall in the challenger division. The sails do make a difference." - Mike & Claudia Crane

"Had our very first race with the Flying Scot last evening and got our very first Bullet. Sails looked and felt great. We took first overall in our spring series. Fully enjoying the sails! Wish we had enough wind to get the FS on plane." - Bob Klein

"I've been sailing Flying Scot for about 3 summers and have read many guides to sail trim that are confusing and incomplete to the beginner, and w/o pictures to illustrate what is being said. Now my crew and I won't be yelling at each other." - Jim Dinger

"I got the sails and used them this weekend in the Fall 48. The wind was very light and variable, but my sails looked great. The boat had great speed. It was fun to have #24 as fast as the rest! Thanks. " - Geoff Spencer


Flying Scot Sails - North Sails is the leader in one design sailmaking. On this page, you will find information about our complete line of Flying Scot sail models, Flying Scot tuning advice, Flying Scot cover information and Flying Scot news and results from the race course.

North Flying Scot sails continue to prove themselves as the fastest and easiest to trim sails in the class. No other sailmaker spends as much time ensuring that their sails are not only easy to trim and the fastest over a wide range of conditions, but also provide their customers with the personal service that they deserve. North Flying Scot personnel always attend the major Championships and regularly provide fleets and clubs with informative clinics.


RHC Radial Mainsail

1,2,3 2014 North Americans!
#1 2013 North Americans!

The RHC was developed with the goal to create a sail that matched the AP Main in speed and performance while adding durability and value. Using the North Sails proprietary design software we added radial head and clew sections which make the sail smoother while keeping the same “easy to trim” shape of the AP. The RHC also features a bit more depth in the forward mid-section of the RHC to allow easier gear changing in breezier conditions.

The RHC works great in combination with either the snug, loose or tight rig jib. It's smooth, easy to trim and fast!

Mainsails include:

  • Battens
  • Sail numbers
  • Flying Scot insignia
  • Vision/small jib leech window
  • Sail bag

A large jib leech window that allows viewing of the entire jib leech, including both battens, is available at an additional charge.

AP Mainsail

#1 2012 & 2011 North Americans!

Optimized with a slightly flatter lower luff area to reduce backwind in light to medium winds and in the upper sections to increase power and pointing ability in all conditions.

The North AP Mainsail is fitted with a shelf foot and custom reinforcements to help distribute the loads into the sail.

Ideal sail for crew weight under 450 lbs. or for those that like a slighter flatter sail.

Mainsails include:

  • Battens
  • Sail numbers
  • Flying Scot insignia
  • Vision/small jib leech window
  • Sail bag

A large jib leech window that allows viewing of the entire jib leech, including both battens, is available at an additional charge.

Recreational Mainsail

North's Flying Scot Recreational sails are built with the highest quality materials for ultimate durability.

Click here for complete details on the North Flying Scot Recreational Sail Line

Snug Rig Jib

1,2,3 2014 North Americans!
#1 2012 & 2011 North Americans!

The Snug Rig Jib is designed to be a great compromise between the Tight and Loose Rig jibs. It is ideal for those Scot sailors who like sailing with a rig tighter than the Loose Rig but don't want to work so hard to set the rig up as tight as necessary with the Tight rig setup. Ideally the rig should be tensioned tight enough that the tension gauge reads around 80 lbs. when measured on the forestay.

Similar to the Tight Rig Jib, the Snug Rig jib is especially easy to trim and steer due to its full and powerful entry. The steering groove on this jib is nearly the widest (least critical) of any Scot jib, second only to the Tight Rig jib, on the market today.

The upper leech is open and again, less demanding sheet tension-wise.

This jib is ideal for those Scot Sailors who want a very forgiving sail to trim and steer but want an easy set up tuning wise. The Snug Rig Jib, like the Tight Rig Jib, is a great choice for those who sail in primarily light and sloppy conditions or are relatively newer sailors, still becoming familiar with steering the Flying Scot.

The Snug Jib is built from the best firm finish 3.8 oz fabric.

Jibs include:

  • Vision window
  • Sail bag

Loose Rig Jib

The Loose Rig Jib is designed for the "Sloppy Rig" tuning setup. A tried and true performer that sets up on the rig tuned with 3" of play fore and aft in the rig setting.

This jib is an easy jib to trim and forgiving to steer.

The upper leech is relatively open and therefore sheet tension is less critical.

This jib is ideal for those Scot sailors who want the ability to "Change Gears" through mainsheet trim....

Built from low stretch durable hard finish 3.8 oz fabric finished specifically to North Sails One Design's requirements.

Jibs include:

  • Vision window
  • Sail bag

Tight Rig Jib

The Tight Rig Jib is designed to be sailed on a much tighter rig tune. Ideally the tension should be tight enough that the rig reads 220-250 lbs. when measured on the forestay. This jib is the fullest and most powerful in the North lineup. A full entry gives this jib the widest and most forgiving groove.

This jib is especially easy to trim and steer due to its full and powerfully entry. The steering groove on this jib is the widest (least critical) of any Scot jib on the market today.

The upper leech is open and again, less demanding sheet tension-wise.

This jib is ideal for those Scot Sailors who want the most forgiving sail to trim and steer. The rig simply does not change much as the conditions change, so the tuning and trim is almost self adjusting. The Tight Rig Jib is perfect for those who sail in primarily light and sloppy conditions or are relatively newer sailors, still becoming familiar with steering the Flying Scot.

Also built from the best firm finish 3.8 oz fabric.

Jibs include:

  • Vision window
  • Sail bag

Recreational Jib

North's Flying Scot Recreational sails are built with the highest quality materials for ultimate durability.

Click here for complete details on the North Flying Scot Recreational Sail Line

BR-1 Full Radial AirX Spinnaker

#1 2014 North Americans!

The BR-1 utilizes the latest design and panel layout. All the panels are fully aligned with the load paths throughout the spinnaker. Built from AirX, the best spinnaker fabric available, it is fast and durable.

Flatter in the head than other spinnaker designs it will prove to be the fastest downwind spinnaker on the race course!

Now available in two different color layouts: The standard layout and the new Star layout!

BR-1 Standard Colour Layout

BR-1 Star Colour Layout

Crosscut Spinnaker

The North Crosscut Spinnaker is built out of Challenge .75 ounce nylon.

The North CrossCut Spinnaker is characterized by a relatively flat upper section which helps to project the leeches and provide more area dead downwind. The more open upper sections help to open the slot between the main and the spinnaker and thereby increases its close reaching performance.

The North CrossCut Spinnaker is one of the easiest, most forgiving spinnakers to trim.


>> Contact the Flying Scot Experts for additional information and questions about our products.

Tuning your Flying Scot for Speed

>> Download the North Flying Scot Tuning Guide

Have a Question? Contact our Flying Scot Experts.

Flying Scot FAQs:

I bought a used Flying Scot that has a set of North Sails. I am trying to find out if they are cut for a Snug Rig or a Loose Rig. Would North Sails have a record of this?

Usually the computer draws on "LR", SR" and "TR" for the various jib designs. These markings would be noticeable by the North logo at the tack. Sometimes, unfortunately, the markings are unclear or missing. In that case, the best way to tell the difference between a Loose, Snug and Tight rig jib in the Scot is to measure the width of the jib at the seam just below the top batten. If it is 38" it is snug. If it is less it a Loose rig (probably by over an inch and a half) and if it is more (wider by nearly 3/4") it is a Tight rig. Just as an aside we probably sell the Snug jib at 5:1 to our other jibs these days. The Tight rig was popular in the late 1990's and the Loose rig jib was popular before that time and also in the late '90's. The Snug rig has been by far the jib of choice since roughly 2002.

In light wind (4-6 kts) when flying the chute, should I concentrate on maintaining a bit of curl or keep it full?

It seams the weight of the fabric collapses the sail as it curls (i.e. Not enough wind pressure to support it on the fine edge of tuning).Yes, ideally you'd still want a slight amount of curl as you sail in medium and heavy winds. However, in light winds you really must lower the pole substantially to support the luff and make the spinnaker easier to fly in light winds. A good guide is to maintain a center seam ( the seam that runs through the middle of the spinnaker from the head to the middle of the foot) parallel to the mast. In light winds that will require that the pole be angled down nearly at 45 degrees.

I've been having some grief when setting/stowing the spin pole during races. Right now when dousing the chute I leave the topping lift and poleguy attached to the pole, disconnect from sail and mast and slide the whole thing back into the cockpit along the cb trunk then forward a bit to keep it out of the skippers feet. Both of us do not like this arrangement and have talked about mounting it along side the boom similar to other performance dinghies we've sailed. Before I start drilling holes in my boom does anyone care to share their secrets for pole management?

Unfortunately it isn't legal to stow it on the boom...can't add more hardware. Most everyone just unhooks the pole from the topping lift and shoves it up forward under the deck. We all have shock cord downhauls that hold the top lift along the mast when not in use. Flying Scot Inc. has this whole setup available and that would make the unhooking and rehooking job of setting the pole a lot easier.

What are the differences between the Crosscut spinnaker and the Radial spinnaker?

The new Radial spinnaker is more expensive but the advantages are:

1) It's more durable due to the radial construction

2) It allows us to use lighter, more reactive (but more expensive) cloth for better performance in light, puffy, shifty conditions.

3) Since it is a full radial and all the panels are fully shaped, the spinnaker will be smoother and theoretically faster.

4) Since it doesn't stretch as much as the crosscut it allows us to make it fuller and more powerful for downwind sailing knowing that it won't become fuller on a reach. Having said that, the crosscut is still a very fast sail...the BR1 is just the latest technology and has proven to be quite speedy as well.

What are the major differences between sailing Flying Scots and Thistles downwind? Does the Scot demand a higher downwind angle than the Thistle?

Basically I think that since the Flying Scot is a bit slower than the Thistle sailing hotter angles unless its really light doesn't gain you much. I think usually we sail deeper in the Scot and heel the boat to weather more. It really light stuff, however, you have to heat the Scot up to get the chute filled and the boat up to speed. Since the Thsitle is much quicker reacting it does react to the "ups and downs" and changes to wind velocity much more that the Scot. I think you'll sail hotter to get speed and then dive a bit deeper, and quicker, once you have it.

How the jib trimmer and helmsman work together to keep the boat flat and go fast up wind in a breeze ?

1) when a puff hits it is imperative that the boat stay flat. Usually that entails an ease on the main sheet to keep the boat balanced and on its feet.

2) the skipper will slowly feather up closer to the wind as the puff builds...hopefully he has anticipated and maintains proper the highest he'll steer in a good sized puff it will not be unusual for the jib luff to actually break (ie "pinch") as much as 18' nack from the leading edge. How far back (how high he steers) is determined by how flat the water is (can pinch more when flatter), how big the puff is and how much speed he was carrying going into the puff.

3) In bigger puffs, and/or a lift at the same time, it is advantageous for the jib trimmer to briefly ease about 3-5" and then quickly trim back in. This brief ease will allow the skipper an easier time in steering the boat into the wind and the helm to balance back up quicker- we are looking for a neutral helm ( no tug or push) as much as possible. Practice is helpful here as too much ease, or at the wrong time can rob the boat of precious power when need the most.

I can not make my boat point. I am 10-15 % less then everyone else - loose rig- wt app 380lbs. I have the boat speed just no pointing. Rig is tuned exactly to your guide, and am using your guide for trimming.

Usually pointing issues come from main trim...if the sheet and/or vang are a little too loose the boat won't have the helm (desire) to point closer to the wind. Especially if its blowing hard, or the water is flat, keeping the main in tighter (not drum tight of course) and allowing the luff of the jib to break (feather) as much as 5-8" back from the luff will give an additional few degrees of pointing.

What is the ideal crew weight for a Flying Scot, and where do I want to place the weight?

We think a perfect all around weight is 425lbs...but of course sailing in breeze or light stuff can effect whether you'd go a little higher or lower. Normally the skipper sits across from the back of the trunk and the forward crew is just aft of the jib tracks...if a third crew is involved they snuggle in between.... In chop they'll move back about six inches. In light winds everyone will move forward only 6" more. Downwind, the crew slides back a bit...maybe a good foot farther aft than where they'd be upwind in the same condition. When its blowing hard (above 18mph) everyone is looking to climb as far aft as possible without sitting on the aft deck.

My mainsail has a wrinkle running parallel with the leech. The wrinkle runs all the way from the luff to the foot of the sail. I tried adjusting the boom vang, outhaul and halyard but the wrinkle remains. What do I need to do?

It sounds to me that there could be two issues creating this problem for you. First, as basic as this may sound, I'd check that your battens are in the right way. Sometimes they get switched around and the stiff end is put in first which will create a hard spot as you have experienced.

Unfortunately, sometimes this winkle can be a sign of age in a sail.When the cloth breaks down, the draft moves aft, the leech gets softer and has a difficult supporting...thus the crease. Usually, this doesn't happen until the sail is more than several years old and has some heavy mileage on it.

ts unusual that there could be sail setting issues, especially on the Scot, that could create the wrinkle. In other boats, extreme mast bend, especially sideways, can create a leech support issue, and thus the wrinkle. Usually, though, the sail/mast set up would have to be way out of tune to create a sail distortion problem.

In the North tuning guide it is mentioned shimming the centerboard on older Flying Scots.  I have such a boat and am interested in the specifics about how to do this.

We will do our best to give you some insights as to best make tighten up the trunk. It is a great idea to work on minimizing the slop in your trunk as the wobble can greatly rob your boat of good upwind performance.

In years past we used to take the boat off the trailer, roll it over in the grass, extend the board and then glue battens alongside the board in the bottom and top of the trunk...while this worked and was effective it was obviously pretty involved ( 2 set process for both sides) and often did a number on your front yard!

Now it seems that many Scot sailors fill/shim their trunks while the boat is actually hanging on the hoist and in half the time...and the job is usually tighter and more fair.

Once the boat is hoisted up high enough the board can be fully lowered the gasket is unscrewed from the front, 2/3 of the way aft.

Lower the board and slide it well aft in the trunk so that you can basically scratch up the front 18" of the lower lip of the trunk with some heavy sandpaper like 50 grit. Next clean it all off with acetone so that epoxy will stick to the fiberglass.

Now wrap the board with wax paper at least 1' down from the bottom of the trunk and hopefully at least 6" up from the bottom. This will keep the epoxy/Marinetex from sticking to the board...otherwise you'll have a keelboat version of the Scot!

Try to be sure the boat is leveled laterally (or better yet, ideally you'd line the board up vertically with the rudder- with the rudder on the transom and viewed from the back of the boat looking forward.) You can brace the board one way or another to try to align the two blades.

Now smear thickened epoxy or Marinetex up alongside the board in the forward section of the trunk. Be sure not to allow the "goo" to slide aft the maximum curvature of the board ( usually almost halfway back) or again you'll have the deep draft model of the Scot as the board won't come up!

Allow to thoroughly dry, remove the wax paper and hoist/drop the board several times to be sure it will run smoothly.

Reattach the gasket and sail faster and point higher!

North Sails is proud to present our full line of Star boat covers, all handmade to the highest quality standards. Constructed using rugged premium 12 oz polyester 900D fabric, North One Design boat covers will give you piece of mind when storing your Flying Scot or taking it on the road.

Available for the Flying Scots:

  • Flying Scot Top Cover (photo)
  • Flying Scot Gasket
  • Flying Scot Mast Cover (photo)
  • Flying Scot Hull Cover (photo)
  • Flying Scot Rudder Cover (photo)
  • Flying scot Spinnaker Shelf, set (photo)
  • Flying Scot Boom Whoopie

Contact the Flying Scot experts:
Paul Abdullah
(904) 571-6051 Work
Skip Dieball
(419) 392-4411 Work
Brian Hayes
(203) 783-4238 Work
(203) 877-6942 Fax
Zeke Horowitz
(941) 232-3984 Work
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