Nationals 1,4,5


Nationals 2,3,5,6,8,10
George Fisher Memorial
Cleveland RW


Nationals 1,2,5,6,8


Nationals 2,3,4,5,6,8
Midwinters 1
Sundusky Regatta 1

1st 2012 Nationals

1st 2011 Nationals

1st 2010 Nationals

Interlake Gallery
Interlake new DSD Designs
Stu Fisher, 2nd place at the 2015 Interlake Nationals, powered by North DSDs!
© Courtesy Grand Traverse YC
2014 Interlake Nationals
Champions Stu/Matt Fisher and Steve Aspery/Alan Freeland 2nd place... Both teams powered by North!
© Lisa Aspery
Winners of the 2012 Interlake Nationals
Congratulations Jim Ward and Jay Mueller!
© Jenny Everson
Recent News
Brian Janney Joins North Sails

Welcome to teh San Diego / West Coast Team!

Having trouble pointing?

Tips to Help You Get More Height When You Need It

Interlake Nationals

New North DSD designs debut finishing second place!

Light Air Gybe Step-by-Step

Welcome Paul Abdullah & Bill Wiggins

Skip Dieball Joins North Sails

Well-known Lake Erie sailor and sailmaker to continue working with local sailors and one design classes worldwide.

Mike Ingham Joins North Sails

After more than 10 years of consulting with the world’s leading sailmaker, Ingham takes role as one design specialist

2014 One-Design Yearbook

A collection of winning tips and triumphs!

© Jenny Everson


With 2012 National Champions Jim Ward and Jay Mueller

Photo courtesy Grand Traverse YC


Interlake Sails - North Sails is the leader in one design sailmaking. On this page, you will find information about our complete line of Interlake sail models, Interlake tuning advice, and Interlake news and results from the race course.

VII Radial Mainsail


#1 2014 Nationals!
1,2,3 2015 Midwinters!


After a year of testing on the most challenging proving grounds (the race course) North Sails introduces the VII Radial designs for the Interlake class! The VII designs are based on the multi event winning VI sails from 2011. We have optimized the VII mainsail by making the lower section slightly fuller than the VI which not only increase power but also has shown to respond well to vang sheeting and cunningham for depowering. This design modification allows for increased acceleration coming out of tacks and off the starting line!

Mainsails include:
  • Sail numbers
  • Interlake insignia
  • Sail numbers
  • Sail bag

DSD Mainsail

With the addition of Skip Dieball and his team to North, the DSD designs are now part of the North Sails Interlake lineup. In migrating the design, Skip worked with the team of OD designers to further enhance the shapes based on the North's proprietary design technology. The result is a smooth, fast and versatile sail that performs on both inland lakes and open water. The radial head and foot provide precise shaping and added durability. The DSD mainsail will stand up to the rigors of the Interlake circuit! 

Mainsails include:

  • Sail numbers
  • Interlake insignia
  • Sail numbers
  • Sail bag

VII Radial Jib

#1 2014 Nationals!
1,2,3 2015 Midwinters!

After a year of testing on the most challenging proving grounds (the race course) North Sails introduces the VII Radial designs for the Interlake class! The VII designs are based on the multi event winning VI sails from 2011. The VI jib proved to be a winning design from its’ first event but we have made the VII even better by increasing window area and modifying the foot shape to add durability and performance. The VI proved it was fast. The VII takes that fast shape and adds durability and visibility to improve your performance even more!

Jib include:

  • Vision window
  • Sail bag


Similar to the DSD Mainsail, the jib went through the North systems and was refined to be a robust headsail that works great with or without a furler. The leech edge matches in perfect symmetry to the backside of the mainsail, providing a perfect slot that will propel your Interlake to the front of the fleet.

Jib include:

  • Vision window
  • Sail bag

Il Maxo Full Radial Spinnaker


#1 2014, 2012 & 2011 Nationals!
1,2,3 2015 Midwinters!

A further advancement on our successful FR2 spinnaker, the Il Maxo is slightly flatter across the shoulders which provides even more projected area. The upper girth is wider and very close to the upper girth measurements of the Interlake. The added area will help the spinnaker sail even faster broad reaching and running and due to the full radial panel layout it will still maintain it's fast shape well for reaching.

>> Contact the Interlake Experts for additional information and questions about our products.

Basic Rig Set-up

Mast Butt Placement at Deck - Maximum forward - 6’4” (76”) from the stem to the forward edge of the mast. Remember that the measurement is from the imaginary intersection of the hull and deck. Do not include the rub rail.

Mast Rake - Measure mast rake by hoisting a tape measure on the main halyard and latch it where the halyard would be at the top black band. Pull the tape back to the middle of the transom at the joint between the transom and the deck. The measurement at this point should be 25’3”.

Keep in mind that you will measure your rake measurement when the rig is tensioned, whether it is by jib halyard tension or by tensioning the forestay itself

Rig Tension - We have found that the Interlake performs best when the rig is set up fairly tight.
There are several different methods Interlake sailors use to set up and tension their rigs when sailing. Some set the forestay very tight and adjust the halyard tension to set the cloth/luff tension. Some set the forestay only snug and then add more tension through adjustment to the jib halyard (which will make the forestay actually become slack as all the tension is taken on the luff wire in the jib) with a powerful block and tackle arrangement.

In either case, ideally the tension will be tight enough that the leeward shroud would just become slack when sailing upwind in a 10 mph breeze.

For those who like to check the rig tension more precisely with a Loos tension gauge, we suggest the tension be set so that the shrouds register around 250lbs In lighter breeze ( below 8mph) ideally the tension will fall between 200 and 250lbs. For breeze over 12 the proper tension will be increased to nearly 340lbs.

Centerboard Angle - Your centerboard should never swing farther forward then straight down (leading edge vertical) or perpendicular to the hull when it is lowered to its maximum. If your board swings past vertical, tie a knot in the centerboard pennant to limit its travel.
Some Interlake sailors have had success in heavier winds raising the board slightly in order to help maintain a balanced helm.


Jib Lead Placement -Your Interlake jib has a trim line drawn from the clew grommet towards the body of the sail. This line provides the most accurate check for your basic jib lead position (below12 mph winds). Your jib leads should be positioned so that the sheet is a direct extension of this trim line. This is more effective than a measure from the stem because of variations in jib lead fittings, deck styles and small rake differences.

In heavy winds ( greater than12 mph), move the leads aft 1- 1 1/2 inches from the basic trim line position.

Jib Cloth Tension – Setting the cloth tension along the luff of your North jib properly is important in setting up the designed shape. Again there are several different methods used by Interlake sailors the cloth tension.

The “adjustable luff” system means your boat is equipped with an adjustable jib tack/Cunningham. Shackle the luff wire to the bow plate and attach the jib cloth shackle to the grommet in the sail. The tension is usually adjustable back in the cockpit.

The “furler luff” jib is fitted with a small clam cleat near the tack that allows the tension on the cloth to be adjusted independently of the luff wire tension. Like the adjustable luff jib, the halyard is attached to the luff wire at the head of the jib and usually tensions the rig.

The “Burkhardt luff” system actually has two halyards, one for tensioning the rig (and attaches to the luff wire) and one for adjusting the cloth tension ( and attaches to the grommet in the cloth at the head). This system is used primarily with a jib furler.

In all three systems, adjust the cloth tension just tight enough to barely leave the horizontal wrinkles along the luff that appear as “crows feet” at each snap. In winds above 10-12mph, tension the cloth so that the luff is just smooth and no wrinkles or crows feet are present.

Jib Sheet- Trim the jib sheet so that in “boat speed” conditions the middle batten is straight aft parallel with the centerline of the boat. In light wind and/or sloppy conditions, ease the jib sheet so the middle batten is angled outboard 10 degrees. Also in breezy conditions, ease the sheet for more twist in the leech.

Only in medium winds and relatively flat water will the jib ever be trimmed so that the middle batten is just slightly hooked to windward and the top batten nearly straight back…and for only short periods of time.


Tapered Battens - Included with your new North mainsail are special tapered battens specifically chosen to perform best with your sail. When inserting the tapered batten, the thinnest end of the batten should be inserted first for the greatest flexibility on the inboard end.

Outhaul - Pull the outhaul tight enough to just induce a slight horizontal wrinkle along the foot. In heavy winds or when the boat is overpowered, tension the outhaul until you will notice a horizontal crease along the foot.
Downwind, ease the outhaul only until the foot is smooth…never to the point of vertical wrinkles off the foot.

Cunningham - Your North mainsail is built with a maximum length luff. As a result, cunningham tension is used to tighten the luff of the mainsail and position the draft (maximum depth) properly ( nearly 45-50% aft) in the sail.

In light winds (less than 6 mph) there should be small wrinkles perpendicular to the luff all the way from the head to the tack.
In medium winds there should be horizontal wrinkles only in the lower 1/3 to 1/4 on the mainsail.

In heavier winds, tension the Cunningham until the luff is nearly smooth.

Main sheet trim- The main should be trimmed so that the upper batten is parallel to the boom (sighted from under the boom looking up the sail).

In lighter winds, or when sailing in a great deal of chop, it is helpful to ease the mainsheet slightly so the upper batten is angled out approximately 10-15º.

In drifting conditions, when the boom is hanging on the leech and hooking the upper batten, set the upper batten parallel to centerline of the boat. Only in drifting conditions should the main be trimmed this way, as this will place the boom approximately 2' (61 cm) off from centerline.

In very heavy winds ( above 12mph), with the help of the boom vang, set the mainsheet tension so the upper batten is again angled outboard approximately 5º from parallel to the boom. It is important, in winds above 15 mph, to apply heavy boom vang tension so the mast and boom will bend correctly to sufficiently flatten the sail. It has been found that the boom may be deflected from the straight line nearly 3” in heavy breezes. This heavy boom vang tension will help make playing the main much easier, as the sheet will not have quite as much strain as it does in even moderate winds.

NOTE: Make sure when rounding the windward mark that the boom vang is eased to your normal downwind trim so more strain is not applied to the mast and boom!

Boom Vang - The boom vang is used downwind to keep the upper batten parallel to the boom. A sailcloth telltale is attached to your mainsail leech at the upper batten. This telltale is used to help determine the proper boom vang tension (and therefore mainsail twist) on reaches or runs. Too much or too little vang will stall this telltale and will indicate that vang adjustment is necessary.

Note: We suggest not using this telltale to determine mainsheet trim upwind as proper trim upwind will result in the telltale showing a stall 50-75% of the time.)

Upwind, as indicated above, the vang is used in heavy winds to help maintain the upper batten parallel to the boom. If the vang is properly adjusted, when the mainsheet is eased in a puff, the boom moves outboard laterally. When tensioned properly in bigger breeze, there will be as much as 3” of bend in the boom.

Traveler - The traveler is used to depower and balance the boat by easing the mainsail sideways in heavy winds. When heavy windward helm develops ( the boat wants to turn up into the wind) the traveler is eased to help keep the boat flat. The traveler bridle height should be 24” from deck level to the top of the block, or as high as possible to allow centering the boom in light winds while still allowing enough mainsheet tension to adjust the leech tension in moderate to heavy breezes. If your bridle height is adjustable, set the height at 28” in light winds and as low as 18-20” in very heavy winds. Be absolutely certain that the traveler height is set so that you will never run out of distance between the traveler blocks on the bridle and the mainsheet block (“two block”). Running out of mainsheet trim before the upper batten becomes parallel with the boom will greatly hinder your Interlake’s ability to point.

Spinnaker Trim - Keep the two clews of the spinnaker even with the deck by adjusting your pole height with the topping lift. The halyard should be lowered so that the spinnaker flies 8 inches off the mast and away from the mainsail. Start with the spinnaker pole positioned perpendicular to the apparent wind direction as indicated by the masthead wind indicator. Try to always carry 6-12 inches of curl in your spinnaker luff. No curl means the spinnaker is over trimmed. The crew and the helmsman must work together closely when sailing in heavy winds with the chute. The crew must ease sometimes as much as 3 feet to allow the skipper to bear off in a puff to keep the boat flat. The skipper must always be prepared to ease the mainsail downwind to keep the boat flat and balance the helm. The only exception to keeping the boat flat is when sailing directly downwind. Under these conditions, balance the helm and allow the spinnaker to swing out behind the mainsail by heeling the boat to windward. Pull the centerboard up as far as possible; only leave enough board down to allow the boat to answer the helm without crabbing sideways or to prevent excessive rolling. If rolling occurs, lower the centerboard at least halfway IMMEDIATELY to prevent the infamous “death roll” to windward, and then pull it back up when the rolling ceases.

Other Important Items

Weight - We suggest sailing with a combined crew weight of 390-460 lbs. Keep the boat almost perfectly flat upwind (except in very light wind) and place the crew weight as far forward as possible. Keep the crew and skipper close together and line up directly behind the shroud when there is enough wind to have all three on the weather rail. The only exception is when sailing in waves where the crew all move back one foot to allow the bow to ride up and over waves more easily.

Steering - Rapid tiller movement seems to slow the Interlake. Instead, slow, gradual movements are best when sailing upwind. Tacking is quickest when actually steered through slowly. Keep the boat moving.

Rolling the Sails - Leave the battens in the mainsail. Start at the head of the sail and roll the sail parallel to the seams (which are parallel with the battens so they won’t get twisted). Put the luff end of the sail into the tube bag first. If the jib sheets remain attached, they can be left out of the tube to dry if they are wet.

>>For tuning help contact the North Interlake experts.

Contact the Interlake experts:
Skip Dieball
(419) 392-4411 Work
Brian Hayes
(203) 783-4238 Work
(203) 877-6942 Fax